Dishwasher Troubleshooting

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The heat of summer is very hard on your home appliances and electronics. Make sure they are working efficiently with a tune up by Cook's Home Appliance.

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Cook's Home Appliance is in no way affiliated with the Cook brand of small appliances being sold at J. C. Penny. We offer no service or replacement parts for these items.

Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Dishwashers have a lot of components, so there are many areas for potential problems. Here we address some of the more common problems and their possible solutions.

Please read our legal Disclaimer first!!!

Machine Fails to Start
Machine Runs But Fails to Fill
Machine Starts to Fill with Water but Water Drains Out
Machine Fills then Quits
Machine Takes too Long to Fill
Machine Fails to Fill with Enough Water
Machine Fills with Cold Water
Machine Cleans Poorly
Drying Cycle Problems
Machine Runs, Fills with Water but Fails to Circulate
Timer Is Not Advancing
Dirty Water Remains in the Bottom
Water Leaks
Leaking from the Front Door Area
Leaks from Underneath
Overflowing with Suds
Constant Noise During Washing or Drying
The Detergent Cup Fails to Open

Please read our legal Disclaimer first!!!

Machine Fails to Start:

Check for power to machine: advance timer to another cycle, drain, rinse etc. If machine does not start check House Breaker panel for tripped breaker or blown fuse.
The door switch is important because, if it's defective, the dishwasher won't work at all and we need to replace it.
The timer or the selector switch may be defective and we need to replace the unit.
Assure that all appropriate cycle selection buttons have been properly selected (depressed)
Is the door latched or locked
Possible broken wire, door switch, timer
Some manufacturers offer a child lockout feature on their electronic models. Make sure this feature is turned "off".

Machine Runs But Fails to Fill:

Assure machine has water supply (check kitchen tap for hot water)
Most machines fill valves require a minimum 18 lbs water pressure to activate open fill valve. Some areas have poor water pressure. (check that house pressure is adequate, is another appliance filling at the same time or is a sprinkler etc. or garden house running?
Some models have a water level float located in the tub bottom, Looks like a round disk or tall tube inspect and assure that nothing like a spoon or other item is stuck under it, this will fool the machine into thinking the level is correct and by pass the fill cycle.
Likely the Water level / overflow switch, Fill valve or Timer has failed

Machine Starts to Fill with Water but Water Drains Out

Make sure that the water is not siphoning out of the machine. You can test this by opening the dishwasher door and adding a small pail of water to the machine, observe for a minute or two. If the any of the water drains out you should suspect that the machines drain hose is not elevated high enough and that the water is siphoning out. Remedy; elevate the drain hose at least 12 inches from the floor.

Machine Fills then Quits:

Some models optional cycle selector buttons. Make sure that cycle selection buttons are fully depressed.
Make sure the house breaker didn't trip during cycle. Advance timer to another cycle and test, check house breaker panel for tripped breaker or blown fuse.
Does the motor hum? If yes likely a seized motor or jammed pump component.

Machine Takes Too Long to Fill:

This problem is almost always is a water pressure problem. Check that house pressure is adequate, is another appliance filling at the same time or is a sprinkler etc. or garden house running?
Most fill valves have a internal filter that captures sand and sediment and prevents it from damaging the valve. Valves are often designed so that the filter cannot be cleaned resulting in the valve having to be replaced. Note: The installation of a whole house water filter can prevent this occurrence, many clothes washers fill valves are designed the same way.

Machine Fails to Fill with Enough Water:

Some machines are time fill, rather than a metered fill. If the water level in the machine is too low, suspect low water pressure. Most fill valves have an internal filter that captures sand and sediment and prevents it from damaging the valve. Valves are often designed so that the filter cannot be cleaned resulting in the valve having to be replaced. Note: The installation of a whole house water filter can prevent this occurrence; many clothes washers fill valves are designed the same way.
Make sure that the water is not draining out of the machine. You can test this by opening the dishwasher door and adding a small pail of water to the machine, observe for a minute or two. If the any of the water drains out you should suspect that the machines drain hose is not elevated high enough and that the water is siphoning out. Remedy, reroute and raise the drain hose.

Machine Fills with Cold Water:

If you just installed the machine and are running it for the first time, assure you connected water supply to a Hot Water line.
You may have used all the hot water, baths, Hot clothes cycles, etc. check for hot water at kitchen tap. Allow hot water tank time to reheat.

Machine Cleans Poorly:

Many cleaning problems are caused by the dishwasher not getting enough wash water, so the water-inlet valve is often to blame. This valve is usually at the bottom left or right of the dishwasher, behind the lower access panel. It's the device with the main water line from the house connected with a rubber tube to the dishwasher. If the water-inlet valve is defective, we need to replace it.
Some have filters in the bottom of the dishwasher that you need to periodically clean. If your filter is clogged, it may be causing the cleaning problem. Consult your owner's manual to determine on how to clean the filter.
Some dishwashers have a valve (or gate) that should open only during draining. If debris lodges in the valve, it can't close properly, so water drains out during the wash cycle. Listen for water flowing into the drain during the wash cycle. If you can hear it then, the drain valve may be clogged.
There's a spray arm at the bottom of your dishwasher - it may have a tall spray tube mounted to the center of it. There may also be a spray arm located directly beneath the upper rack of dishes and/or above the upper rack. If debris is blocking the holes in the spray arms where the water comes out, it could cause cleaning problems. Regularly inspect each of the spray arms and clean out the holes as necessary.
To get the best cleaning results, the water entering your dishwasher needs to be hot enough. Try running the hot water in your kitchen sink for about 30 seconds before starting the dishwasher, to pre-heat it. Also, if your dishwasher lets you select a higher wash or rinse temperature, try that to see if it helps.
To check the temperature of the hot water that comes from your kitchen faucet use a waterproof thermometer. If the water isn't 120 degrees Fahrenheit, your dishwasher may have trouble getting your dishes clean.

Drying Cycle Problems:

Your dishwasher has an electrical heating element that helps to dry the dishes. If the element is burned out, the dishes won't dry properly, and we need to replace the element.
Many high-priced dishwashers have a small fan that blows air or heated air into the dishwasher to speed up the drying process. If the fan is defective, we need to replace it.
Some dishwashers have a thermostat that monitors the drying temperature. If the thermostat is defective, the heating element may not cycle on or off properly. If that's the problem, we need to replace the thermostat.

Machine Runs, Fills with Water but Fails to Circulate:

Some machines have a circulation filter that captures food particles during the wash cycle. These filters can plug up with excessive food, minerals etc. some manufacturer design allows you to clean these and have a removable filter. (Check inside tub)
Inspect wash arms. (Wash arms consist of a series of holes that circulate the water, in time these can get plugged with hard water minerals or food particles, also check for splits in the arm edges.
Earlier Maytag machines had a belt drive. Remove the front toe panel and inspect belt.
Most manufacturers use a direct drive system with a series of impellors and seals mounted on tops of the motor itself. Likely one of the impellors has broken. Please contact us for help, improper reassembly of a dishwasher pump system can result in house flooding.

Timer Is Not Advancing:

Many dishwashers heat the wash and/or rinse water to a higher temperature, as the cycle calls for it. In these cycles, the dishwasher pauses after it has filled with water, waiting for the water to reach the pre-set temperature. The cycle can't continue until the water reaches the higher temperature. If the heating system fails the timer will not advance because the water never reaches the correct temperature.
If your water reaches the correct temperature but the timer still fails to advance, it is likely that your timer has failed.

Dirty Water Remains in the Bottom:

Advance machine to a drain cycle, if motor runs but water doesn't drain proceed to the next paragraph. If the machine does not run check that house breaker or fuse didn't trip, if so – please contact us for help.

Machine Runs but Fails to Drain:

Some machines have a drain sump area that should be cleaned. Open the dishwasher door and inspect in the bottom area. The item is usually labeled.
Plugged drain hoses are one of the most probable causes of this type of failure. A good practice is to scrape all food particles bigger than 1/8 inch off of all dishes before putting them into the dishwasher. Most often something like a small bone, popcorn, peanuts etc. have become lodged in the drain hose. The first place to inspect is where the drain hose from the drainpipe connects to the house drain system, likely under the kitchen sink. Disconnect and inspect both the end of the hose and the nipple on the house drain attachment. If both are clear put the end of the drain hose in a pail and turn the dishwasher on a drain cycle, if you are lucky the lodged item will come out in the pail. If that didn't work, follow the entire route of the drain hose back to the machine and look for kinks or folds in the hose.
Many dishwashers use a drain valve with an electric solenoid. This valve opens and diverts the water to the drain. Sometimes the solenoid, or the diverting lever, sticks and prevents the dishwasher from draining or filling properly. We may have to replace the solenoid or pump assembly.
Your dishwasher pump ejects the water. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. You can reach the pump from inside the dishwasher, but first you need to remove the lower rack, the spray arm, and the spray arm support. Look for an impeller--a round plastic fan blade-type of device that spins around. This is the wash impeller, which forces the water through the spray arm. Beneath the wash impeller is the drain impeller, which is similar in size and shape to the wash impeller. The drain impeller pushes the water toward the drain port. These components make up the pump. If any of the pump components are defective, you need to replace them.
One brand of dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump. If this belt is broken or has fallen off, we need to replace it.
Check the Timer - Part of what the timer does is control the motor and drain valve. If the timer doesn't work properly, the water may not drain and you need to replace the timer. This problem is uncommon.

Water Leaks:

The source of a water leak can be very difficult to identify since water has a natural tendency to flow down hill and the leak source could potentially be far from where the water pool or spill accumulates. With the power supply disconnected or breaker turned off, trace the watermarks to the potential source.

Leaking from the Front Door Area:

Is the machine over filling? Many dishwashers fill just to the top of the drying element. Water levels beyond this generally indicate an overfilling situation. Check water level/float system.
Is the latch tightly closing the door?
Inspect the condition of the door seal
Inspect the machines Wash/Spray arms for cracks that might be directing water to the seal areas of the door.

Leaks from Underneath:

Trace water marks for indication of source.
Inspect all nuts/bolts and component seals.

Overflowing with Suds:

You're using too much soap. Try running it without any soap and see if it still leaks.
You used dishwashing liquid by mistake.
Your door gasket is split or worn.
The tub/motor gasket is worn.
The pump/motor assembly is leaking. If your dishwasher is made with the pump and motor built as a single unit, you'll need to replace the whole assembly.
The spray arm hub assembly (what the spray arm is mounted on) is split. Usually seen on GE, Hotpoint, and Magic Chef dishwashers.

Constant Noise During Washing or Drying:

Make sure that the noise is not coming from dishes being moved by water during the cycle. Open the door and inspect for dishes being hit by the spray / wash arms.
Identify the type of noise; grinding or sandy types of noises often indicate a bearing that has been saturated by water.
As motor bearings wear out, they can become quite loud when the motor runs. They wear out quickly if they frequently get wet, because the water washes away the motor bearing grease.
Noisy during drying cycle: If the heater fan bearings are rusted or worn, they may squeal, or scrape loudly during the drying cycle. If this is the problem, we need to replace the fan motor.

The Detergent Cup Fails to Open

When the detergent cup doesn't open, check these:

Timer
Bi-metal switch or wax motor
Detergent cup, itself

Timer - On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective, the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair or replace it, as necessary.
Bi-metal switch or wax motor - A bi-metal switch is a simple electrical device that deforms when electricity is applied to it. The degree of this deformation can be engineered to concise standards. The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it. On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly. Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door.
Detergent cup, itself - The detergent cup itself can become clogged with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably need to replace the entire cup assembly.